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Author
Language
English
Appears on list
Description
Investigates colossal ship-swallowing rogue waves and the surfers who seek them out. For centuries, mariners have spun tales of gargantuan waves, 100 feet high or taller. Until recently scientists dismissed these stories; waves that high would seem to violate the laws of physics. But in the past few decades, as a number of ships have vanished and new evidence has emerged, oceanographers realized something was brewing in the planet's waters. They found...
Author
Language
English
Description
With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors, recounts his remarkable journey of discovery-of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean's beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave-that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder-in a single year, Heller travels...
Author
Series
Publisher
Lonely Planet
Pub. Date
©2020.
Language
English
Description
Explore the world's most thrilling waves with Epic Surf Breaks of the World. From Namibia's wind-swept Skeleton Bay to Java's G-Land, discover the best place to 'hang ten', whatever your surfing ability. Accompanied by a series of stunning photographs, maps and beautiful illustrations as well as first-person stories from surf writers all across the globe, including Pulitzer Prize winner William Finnegan, this is the quintessential guide for surfers...
Author
Publisher
FalconGuides
Pub. Date
[2012]
Language
English
Description
"The Art of Stand Up Paddling" includes everything both new and not-so-new paddlers need to know--from buying a board and getting started on your local lake to paddling rivers and surfing waves in Hawaii. Also included is a fascinating and controversial history of stand up paddling, which, although new to many, actually dates back hundreds of years to Peruvian and Hawaiian fishermen.
Author
Publisher
Pegasus Books
Pub. Date
2021.
Language
English
Appears on list
Description
"Women on Waves is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more! Spanning a millennium from Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors"--
10) Welcome to paradise, now go to hell: a true story of violence, corruption, and the soul of surfing
Author
Publisher
It Books, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers
Pub. Date
[2013]
Language
English
Description
"For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, Oahu's paradisical North Shore turns into a fiery hell. Its normal population of sixteen thousand more than triples and this explosion of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans creates one of the most combustible milieus on earth. Waves, like gold and oil, are a limited resource and, as such, are fiercely fought over by the visiting hoards, the surf industry, other Hawaiian...
14) Pig kahuna
Author
Series
Pig kahuna volume 1
Publisher
Bloomsbury
Pub. Date
2011.
Language
English
Description
Fergus is afraid to go in the water, but he and his baby brother Dink find a surfboard while collecting treasures along the seashore.
Author
Publisher
Abrams Books for Young Readers
Pub. Date
2022.
Language
English
Description
Young Maya always hears of everyone in her fishing village being scared of "The Beast," the giant wave that crashes into the shoreline every day, and after seeing boys surfing it she is determined to surf it herself, showing everyone the beauty it has to offer.
Author
Publisher
Viero / Rare Bird Books
Pub. Date
2018.
Language
English
Description
"It is likely not terribly surprising that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws. Tanned boys who refused to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. As the surf brands accidentally morphed into a multimillion, then multibillion dollar industry beginning in the 1980s, however, the derelict portrait began...
Author
Publisher
Rodale Books
Pub. Date
[2019]
Language
English
Description
"Millions of us increasingly seek happiness in fads and self-help books, reaching upward every day toward some enlightened state that we wish to attain. Surfing icon Laird Hamilton is more intent on looking inward and appreciating the brilliant creatures we already are. In Liferider, Laird uses five key pillars-Death & Fear, Heart, Body, Soul, and Everything Is Connected-to illustrate his unique worldview and life practices, offering inspiration to...
Author
Publisher
Ten Speed Press
Pub. Date
2022.
Language
English
Description
A visually stunning exploration of female surfers from around the world, with profiles of 25 inspiring women and 250 photos showcasing their favorite breaks, boards, and lifestyles. Women Making Waves is a visual celebration of surfing as seen through the eyes of women from the United States, Sri Lanka, South Africa, Australia, and beyond. It features twenty-five women who are breaking new ground in the worlds of surfing, environmental protection,...
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