The Cuban sandwich: a history in layers

In this new perspective on a passionate, long-standing contest, University of South Florida academics Huse and Cruz and food writer Houck suss out the origins of the Cuban sandwich and steer readers through the intense, fraught debate between Miami's and Tampa's fiercely defended versions. Florida had Cuban settlements long before 1959's Cuban revolution, particularly in Key West and Tampa. In addition to their cigar-rolling skills, immigrants to Tampa's Ybor City enclave imported from Havana's late-night eateries the medianoche (midnight in Spanish): marinated roast pork, ham, cheese, mustard, and sweet pickles pressed between slices of egg bread. Reimagined on plainer Cuban bread, it was a Tampa specialty till the explosive growth of Miami's Cuban community. To this day, the two cities feud over whose sandwich is the "authentic" Cuban sandwich (Tampa's version adds salami). The Cuban sandwich has become a phenomenon, spawning many regional variations throughout the U.S. Even the august America's Test Kitchen has taken on the challenge, using its technical prowess to analyze, deconstruct, and engineer a perfect Cuban sandwich.

This title by University of South Florida faculty Huse (Florida studies) and Bárbara Cruz (social science education) and former Tampa Tribune food editor Jeff Houck takes readers on a culinary journey. It opens with the history of colonial Cuba, moves through the waves of migration in the 20th century, and uses the layered Cuban sandwich as a metaphor for the tiers of identity experienced by generations of Cubans living in the United States. The authors explore the history of the sandwich through the lens of the modern diaspora via interviews with well-respected, multigenerational bakers, chefs, meat packers, and owners of renowned Cuban bakeries, sandwich shops, and restaurants, while also providing readers with tips and recipes on how to make their own sandwich at home. VERDICT The authors note that their research was limited by pandemic travel restrictions and the dearth of written sources available in the United States. That said, this is an excellent, approachable resource on Cuban history told through the complexities of a beloved food item. Highly recommended for foodies and history buffs.--Gricel Dominguez

In this new perspective on a passionate, long-standing contest, University of South Florida academics Huse and Cruz and food writer Houck suss out the origins of the Cuban sandwich and steer readers through the intense, fraught debate between Miami's and Tampa's fiercely defended versions. Florida had Cuban settlements long before 1959's Cuban revolution, particularly in Key West and Tampa. In addition to their cigar-rolling skills, immigrants to Tampa's Ybor City enclave imported from Havana's late-night eateries the medianoche (midnight in Spanish): marinated roast pork, ham, cheese, mustard, and sweet pickles pressed between slices of egg bread. Reimagined on plainer Cuban bread, it was a Tampa specialty till the explosive growth of Miami's Cuban community. To this day, the two cities feud over whose sandwich is the "authentic" Cuban sandwich (Tampa's version adds salami). The Cuban sandwich has become a phenomenon, spawning many regional variations throughout the U.S. Even the august America's Test Kitchen has taken on the challenge, using its technical prowess to analyze, deconstruct, and engineer a perfect Cuban sandwich. Copyright 2022 Booklist Reviews.

This title by University of South Florida faculty Huse (Florida studies) and Bárbara Cruz (social science education) and former Tampa Tribune food editor Jeff Houck takes readers on a culinary journey. It opens with the history of colonial Cuba, moves through the waves of migration in the 20th century, and uses the layered Cuban sandwich as a metaphor for the tiers of identity experienced by generations of Cubans living in the United States. The authors explore the history of the sandwich through the lens of the modern diaspora via interviews with well-respected, multigenerational bakers, chefs, meat packers, and owners of renowned Cuban bakeries, sandwich shops, and restaurants, while also providing readers with tips and recipes on how to make their own sandwich at home. VERDICT The authors note that their research was limited by pandemic travel restrictions and the dearth of written sources available in the United States. That said, this is an excellent, approachable resource on Cuban history told through the complexities of a beloved food item. Highly recommended for foodies and history buffs.—Gricel Dominguez